Since I was in the middle of a school semester I wanted to travel vicariously and I had heard that Dark Star Safari: Overland from Cario to Cape Town (2004) was inspiration for one of Paul Theorux's most recent novels, The Lower River (which I plan to read soon). As usual this book was just what I was looking for. I always enjoy Theroux's distinctive travel persona which involves traveling alone overland with wry observations and interesting tidbits from the background reading he does for these journeys (whether is is before/during/or after is of no importance, but I suspect much of it takes place as he travels). Early in the book he states: "The best travel is a leap in the dark. If the destination were familiar and friendly, what would be the point of of going there?" I suspected that he would have a rough time of it, given his observations of India in Ghost Train to the Eastern Star. But I forgot to factor in that it was in Africa that he made himself-did his first writing, met V.S. Naipal, and got married. That experience inspired one of his best books, My Secret History. Visiting Malawi was a homecoming, not unlike returning to Singapore where he published a novel and taught at an university that he revisits in Ghost Train. In a sense this is special trip for Theroux, he was coming back after 30 years. However, even if he imagined he would be put off like he was about India, I doubt it would stop him. He writes:
To me travel was not about rest and relaxation. It was action, exertion,motion, and the built-in delays were longueurs necessitated by the inevitable problem-solving of forward movement: waiting for buses and trains, enduring breakdowns that tried to make the best of.
I always enjoy his observations of the countries, cities, people, trains, and societies he makes as he travels. There will always be random encounters with other travelers and people whose country he is visiting and he prods them for their observations of the country as well as their specific stories. He often seeks out people who can give him specific information about a specific problem. For example, in this book he befriends a Zimbabwean farmer whose land is being occupied. He goes further and goes to talk to a squatter on the man's farm to get both sides of the issue-although it is clear which side he is on. He also has very specific things to say about all the foreign aid agencies in Africa, who have the best cars and are the least likely to offer a ride to a traveler. He has this to say:
That was my Malawi epiphany. Only Africans were capable of making a difference in Africa. everyone else, doctors and volunteers and bankers, however idealistic, were simply agents of subversion.
He also has much scorn for the pious missionaries he encounters on his travels. I have to admit to being entertained when he goes mano mano with a young female missionary when discussing the bible since she is homophobic and he points out passage after passage of ridiculous rules and regulations from the bible, but knows he can't win. Somehow he felt the need to have a go at her-something I can not be bothered to do-you will never win an argument with a true believer-which he acknowledges himself. He says:
The missionaries aim was the creation of African nags and twaddles who were morbid and sanctimonious, and whose victory was the destruction of their homegrown pieties and ancient artifacts of veneration.
Of course, I always enjoy the literary interludes as well. On this trip he visits two Nobel Literature Prize winners: Naghib Mahfouz in Cairo and Nadine Gordimer in South Africa. Two writers I am quite familiar with since I previously read several of their books after they won the prizes in the 90s. On one occasion, he mentions that a missionary reminds him of a Paul Bowles story had me looking it up since I know that I read The Collected Stories of Paul Bowles-"Pastor Dow at Tacate." He mentions that he reread Conrad's Heart of Darkness several times on the trip, as well as books by the English explorer Richard Burton, books related to Arthur Rimbaud's exile in Ethiopia, a history book about the massacre in Rwanda (We Wish to Inform You That Tomorrow We Will Be Killed With Our Families: Stories from Rwanda is a 1998 non-fiction book about the genocide that I also read), as well as others. At one point Theroux offers his list of National Writers: (UK) V.S. Pritchett, (AR) Borges, (IN) R.K. Narayan, (BR) Jorge Amando, (JP) Shusako Endo, (EG) Mafhouz, (TR) Yasar Kemal, and (ZA) Gordimer. I don't contest Borges, Amando, Mafhouz, or Gordimer. I find it curious that he names Prichett and Endo, I can think of more interesting authors in England and Japan. The other countries that I don't refer to- I don't know enough about their literary history to make an intelligent comment.
In sum, another great romp in a place that I'm not sure I want to visit. However, that being said, I do have some friends in South Africa and that seems like an interesting destination. I am also intersted in North Africa: Morocco, Tunisia, etc... We'll see if and when these trips happen.
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