Lost In Translation

Ley Lines

Ley Lines (1999) is part of the Black Society Trilogy directed by Takashi Miike, that also includes the impressive Rainy Dog and, the yet ot be viewed by me, Shinjuku Triad Society. So far the first two installments focus on outsiders, (A Japanese in Taiwan in Rainy Dog) and Chinese in Japan in this film. Also, both films focus on unlikely families is that are formed in the underworld fringes of society. In Rainy Dog, a boy, a hit man, and prostitute form the unlikely family, while in this film it is a pair of brothers, their school friend and a Chinese prostitute that form the unlikely family. So far, these are two of Miike's best films in my opinion. They both have creative uses of camera angles, film filters, acting, and dramatic story lines in which the lead characters try to escape their shady environments which end in tragedy or ambiguously.

Harajuku Tokyu Plaza

I finally went inside the new Tokyu Plaza in Harajuku.

Wood sculpture among the many stores designated for women-not much for me here.

However, I would come back for the outside seating at the Starbucks on a sunny day.

The view from above.

Utamaro And His Five Women

Utamaro And His Five Women (1946) is a film directed by celebrated Japanese director Kenji Mizoguchi. This is a Portuguese DVD version that has English subtitles, and admittedly it is considered a "minor" work from one of Japan's cinematic masters, but you would think Criterion would bring out a new transfer. The opening sequence has a great scene in which the camera tracks down a long procession of people at a 45 degree angle, so each person is seen in a rounded, profile view. Joan Mellen in her book, Waves At Genji's Door, suggests that this image of slowly walking women slowed by their dress and "geta" (traditional wood shoes) implies the subjugation of women. She may have a point since most of the women are prostitutes in the film--the ukiyo-e artist Umataro's most famous subject. Umataro in the film is presented as a anti-feudal, anti-traditionalist obsessed with art and happily living among the "common people." It is the story of an artist whose passion inhabits his art instead of his life, while the opposite is seen with one of his disciples who absconds with one of the beloved models, Oran, and stops painting. Umataro's anit-feudal and traditional aspects are seen when he refuses a duel and challenges the man to an art contest to show that he lives a code that is unlike that of the oppressor the shogunate, who considers banishing him before deciding on a 50 day house arrest where his hands are bound so that he cannot create. It is almost too much for him and once freed there is a collage of Umataro's greatest prints at the closing. It seems that Mizoguchi had less funding that prevented him from using a crane to do his trademark aerial tracking shots and it was made under scrutiny by the Occupational censor who didn't want films espousing the glories of the past in post war Japan.

Great Burger: Cafe Hohokam

Perhaps it comes as no surprise that Cafe Hohokam has excellent burgers, since it is associated with another Harajuku gourmet burger joint, The Great Burger. It has a Southwestern American theme and outdoor seating on an open balcony-so lots of ambiance. I always try the standard cheese burger to taste the quality-and this is definitely one of the best burgers in town. I see that they have added a pastrami sandwich, which I'll be back to try later.

Love Exposure

I have been hearing good things about Japanese director Sion Sone, so I though I'd check out some of his films. The first I watched was Love Exposure (2008) and I wasn't very impressed. Poor acting, of the variety you find on Japanese dramas. It is an overblown story that seems to have been ripped from the pages of manga its cartoonish intensity. It is a pretentious grab bag of sex, violence, religion, and drama. I haven't completely written him off yet, since I ordered Cold Fish (2010), which garnered a small amount of fanfare.

WP Goldburger

This was my first trip to Shibuya's WP Goldburger, which was somewhat of a disappointment. The burger had some gristle in it, which I didn't appreciate. You can have your choice of french fries or mashed potatoes, also narrow counter space, but there are a couple of tables outside. I think there are better burger options in the area.

Their Heads Are Green And Their Hands Are Blue

Their Heads Are Green And Their Hands Are Blue (1963) is a collection of essays about travel by Paul Bowles. Bowles has a gift for telling observations about travel in places that weren't really meant for tourists, as well as exposing interesting aspects of the people who live in the obscure places he traveled. "Fish Traps and Private Business" is about his travels in Sri Lanka (Ceylon)--a place that he once had a residence. He does an overview of the culture and religion of North Africa (Morocco, Tunisia, and Algeria). Travel in India is covered in "Notes Mailed at Nagercoil."  One of the more interesting pieces was his portrait of the average Moslem, who Bowles suggests is about to disappear in the near future, in "Mustapha and His Friends." There is another interesting portrait of a Moroccan character who Bowles brings to Turkey to help him navigate the country in "A Man Must Not Be Very Moslem." Bowles was also a composer and while living in Morocco, Bowles tried to record and preserve the folk music of the region. In "The Rif, to Music" he recounts his time traveling around the region trying to capture music. Bowles celebrates the solitude of the desert in the "baptism Of Solitude." "All Parrots Speak" reveals Bowles appreciation of parrots as pets. The final essay, "The Route to Tassemsit," is another record of his attempts to preserve the local folk music. All in all, it is a very enlightening and entertaining collection of essays about places I would like to travel to, but not in the rustic manner Bowles did.