Local Flavors

Here's a useful guide to Japanese snacks from Metropolis:

Snack time
Get your fill of traditional Japanese treats at Tokyo's best-loved snack shops

Photos by Sarah Noorbakhsh

Taiyaki
These fish-shaped cakes (tai means “sea bream”) are filled with anko (red bean paste) and have been a beloved snack since 1909. These days, it’s not unusual to find vendors selling them with custard, chocolate or cheese fillings, and there are even okonomiyaki, gyoza and sausage varieties.

Opened in 1957, Nezu no Taiyaki is actually just a tiny stall. On the wall is a note from former US Vice President Walter Mondale: “Thank you for the best taiyaki.” The politician certainly knew his stuff. Nezu no Taiyaki’s snacks are renowned for their thinly layered, crispy outer shell. Unlike other shops that cook several taiyaki at once, each “fish” here is handmade. Definitely worth the extra wait. ¥140 each. 

1-23-9 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku. Tel: 03-3823-6277. Open Sat-Mon & Wed 10:30am-4pm. Nearest stn: Sendagi, Todaimae or Nezu.

Ningyo-yaki
Literally meaning “baked dolls,” ningyo-yaki are anko-filled cakes that originated in Tokyo’s Ningyocho neighborhood. The treats are made by pouring batter into intricate molds, which yield shapes ranging from shichi-fukujin (Seven Gods of Fortune) to bunraku characters. These days, you can also find Pokemon, Hello Kitty and Little Mermaid varieties, with fillings that include matcha, custard cream and sakura.

Itakuraya is a Meiji-era shop that offers ningyo-yaki with six of the seven gods printed on them—the only one missing is Fukurokuju, the deity of happiness, wealth and longevity. Why? It’s said that the face of this god can be seen in the smiles of customers as they eat. Available for ¥100 each in packs of five, ten and 15. 

2-4-2 Ningyocho, Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku. Tel: 03-3667-4818. Open Mon-Sat 9am until stocks are gone, closed Sun & hols. Nearest stn: Ningyocho. www.itakuraya.com

Dorayaki
Dorayaki are made with a pair of yellow sponge cakes (known as castella) sandwiched around anko. The cakes have lots of honey mixed in, resulting in a moist texture. Japanese people have been enjoying dorayaki since the early 20th century; the name derives from the shape, which resembles a dora, or gong.

Located just outside the iconic Senso-ji temple, Kamejyu has been serving dorayaki for 80 years. The store is renowned for the fluffiness of the cakes and the refined filling, which is made with beans from Hokkaido. The cooks season the paste with black sugar, giving it a characteristically dark hue. Kamejyu also serves a rare white-bean variety of dorayaki. The bustling shop is a favorite of Japanese actors and tarento. 

2-18-11 Kaminarimon, Taito-ku. Tel: 03-3841-2210. Open 10am-8:30pm, closed first and third Mondays. Nearest stn: Asakusa.

Karinto
Karinto are deep-fried, stick-shaped snacks made with flour and yeast with a coating of brown- or white-sugar syrup. Thanks to their inexpensive ingredients and simple preparation, they were originally considered dagashi, or low-brow treats. But karinto went upmarket after some confectioners began using select flour and sugar while adding ingredients like sesame seeds and peanuts.

Ginza Tachibana offers two varieties of handmade, additive-free karinto: the thick-cut “Koro” and the slender “Saeda.” Delicately coated with glazed sugar, they resemble small glass beads and, unlike most karinto, are not overly sweet. A bag costs ¥800, but for a unique Tokyo memento, buy the ones in a classy vermillion cylinder (¥1,100-¥5,000) or square aluminum cans (¥1,300-¥3,700). 

8-7-19 Ginza, Chuo-ku. Tel: 03-3571-5661. Open 11am-7pm, closed Sun and holidays. Nearest stn: Ginza.

Senbei
The humble Japanese rice cracker comes in a multitude of shapes, sizes and flavors. Usually savory but sometimes sweet, senbei are traditionally eaten with green tea and offered as refreshments to houseguests. Flavorings can include soy sauce, nori, konbu, sesame seeds or black beans.

Located in Yanaka, Daikokuya looks like it’s been on the same street corner forever—in fact, the wooden structure is said to have survived the firebombing of World War II. Customers can look on as the senbei is cooked and seasoned with soy sauce by the elderly couple who own the place. The crackers have a crunchy outside, and the flavorful soy sauce seeps inside to yield a golden-brown color. ¥120 each, or ¥1,150 for 10—but you’re paying for craftsmanship. 

1-3-4 Yanaka, Taito-ku. Tel: 03-3821-7000. Open Fri-Wed 10:30am-6:30pm, closed Thu. Nearest stn: Yanaka.

Comments

[Edward]

I think Doraemon has a thing for Dorayaki - not sure if this is how he got his name(?)