Last week I went to Korea to visit my friend Edward and his fiance Jeleesan View image. I met Edward in my first year onthe JET Program and then visited him in 1999-2000 in Sydney, he's a transplanted Englishman-more English than Aussie I'd say. He and Jeleesan, who he met in Sydney, have been living in Bristol for more than a year, before coming to Korea to get married. (The picture above is Incheon at night)
I had been to Korea about 6 years earlier with my friend Michael, who was on JET with me and Edward in Koshigaya. Last time I was only there for three days and only saw Seoul. Since Edward and Jeleesan live in Incheon, and since Jeleesan is Korean, I had a more authentic and local experience. As a result there are fewer foreigners, therefore fewer people speak English and I stand out more. I was surprised that no one marveled at my ability to use chopsticks like they do in Japan. People commented on how big and tall I am, as opposed to the Japanese who comment on how tall and fat I am. Especially in comparison to Edward who is much shorter and quite thin.
It seems that most people live in these dreary high rise apartment buildings (see below) that remind me of the tennemant building in NY or Hong Kong. In Japan they tend to have a variety of styles, generally speaking, but there are some complexes as well.
Generally speaking everything is cheaper in Incheon than in Seoul, which seems inexpensive to me to begin with, I believe it was 1100 won to the dollar, the cabs were very cheap, and so was food and drink. I'm not sure how much I spent, because the first few nights I didn't spend anything. I was beginning to think that everything was free, because Jeleesan or one of her friends would sneak off and pay the bill before I had the chance to do so. Apparently, the Koreans don't go dutch, rather they take turns treating each other. (Here's a typical street in Incheon near Edward and Jeleeson's apartment)
I found that there are several similarities between the Koreans and Japanese, but also fundamental differences. There is a sort of vertical system like Japan, but it seems rather that family and age are more important than other types of status. In general Koreans seem to be more demonstrative and aggressive than Japanese. For example, people are often touching each other (even men) and hold hands (I've seen girls, brothers and sisters, and co-workers holding hands).
I guess about half of the Koreans are Christian. There are several churches throughout the neighborhoods in ordinary office building complexes (see below), a curious sight. I think that less than 10% of Japanese are Christian in comparison.
The food culture is completely different as well, but I think there will be several posts on the food, which I really enjoyed and just got a basic introduction to. But it looks like I'll be back for Edward and Jeleesan's wedding in November (it's only a two hour flight and I've got free flights to Asia on my mileage). Jeleesan's mother went to a fortuneteller to find out what the lucky dates for the marriage were and they chose between several, two of which were October 13th and 31st, and eventually they opted for the 20th of November.
Sounds like you had a good time. Similar to when I visited you, it is always a lot different experience when you have friends/chaperones in a city you visit. More enjoyable I would imagine. I had a similar experience in Munich when Tracy brought us to festivals and areas of Munich normal tourists would not have the ability or knowledge to see. Glad you had fun.
Posted by: Kraig | August 28, 2004 at 06:18 PM
You make me sound like a midget!!
I think Korea is about 30% Christian and 30% Buddhist (give or take 5%), with the rest generally without a stated religion. There is also a very old Shamanistic tradition that lives on in Korea, and there are so many thousand female shamans that are still employed to bless new businesses etc, communicating with spirits and dancing a lot (so I read) - but hold only a low position in society. There are a number of minor relgions which are frequently a mix of philosophies - some of them might be considered religious cults (remember the Moonies?? - the Rev Moon is still going apparently - as much rich industrialist as religious leader according to my guide book).
Posted by: Edward | September 05, 2004 at 09:20 AM
I stand corrected on the religion aspect, I remeber we talked about it, but you who really cares about accuracy anyway-look at Bush-WMD? Saddam-Bin Laden in cahoots? Arnie seeing Russian tanks in Austria?
Posted by: MC | September 06, 2004 at 06:24 AM